TRAIL FAVORITES
Over the years, I've had some
favorite (and not so favorite) trail experiences. Here's a lengthy list
(see below), but
keep in mind that these are only my opinions and they may differ significantly
from yours. Some hikers prefer backpacking over car
camping,
others prefer poker over
bingo.
It's all relative at the end of the day - so take my comments at face value. Also
keep in mind that the conditions at each destination vary with time, the seasons, the weather,
etc., and you can click below to jump to a specific category:
Backpacking Trips,
Camping, Trails,
Weather, Flora/Fauna, Food And Water,
Unique Features
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Grand Canyon National
Park - Arizona
Phantom Ranch - December 10, 2002

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BACKPACKING
TRIPS
Best Overall Backpacking Trip -
Bright Angel
Campground, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10,
2002.
The Grand Canyon is awesome
any way you see it, and on this multi-day loop hike we started at the South
Rim hiked to the Colorado River and looped back to the South Rim Village.
Our hike through the Canyon was amazing and when combined with some
snowboarding in Utah and some gambling in Vegas this vacation was tops.
Worst Overall Backpacking Trip
-
Tusquitee
Bald, Nantahala
National Forest, Tusquitee Ranger District - Western North Carolina - August
2, 1997.
Brutal, absolutely brutal ... I don't know how else to
describe it. The trail (if you could call it that) had tons of blow downs, very few blazes, and lots of insects that seemed to thrive in the
hot august heat. I wouldn't go back there without a lobotomy (or at
least a GPS).
Most Memorable
Backpacking Trip -
Siler
Bald, Appalachian Trail, Nantahala National Forest -
Western North Carolina -
October 19, 1996.
When The Joker decides to go streaking
on an exposed mountain top in twenty degree weather I guarantee it's
something you will not forget.
Best Adventure, Most Exciting -
Zone
31-32, Denali National Park - Central Alaska - June 30, 1995.
It was my first trip to Alaska and we
spent five days wandering around in the backcountry in
Denali National Park. We saw
five grizzly and walked directly into a moose feeding in
the dense brush along the Toklat River.
Best Group Dynamics -
Whitewater
Falls, Nantahala
National Forest - Western North Carolina - January 21, 2001.
We had single digit temps this
winter night near the Foothills Trail, but a roaring campfire, some good trail
buddies, and some fine spirits made for a great evening in the backcountry.
Best Hitch -
1. Upper Goose
Pond, Appalachian Trail - Western Massachussets - August 16, 1994. 2.
Clarendon Gorge,
Appalachian Trail - Southern Vermont - August 29, 1994.
Nomad and I caught a ride with two
twins on their way to a music festival during our
1994
thru-hike. We hit town with them,
loaded up some supplies, and surprised a bunch of thru-hikers late night with
food and beer at Upper Goose Pond cabin.
Best Trail Magic -
Eckville Shelter, Appalachian Trail - Southeastern Pennsylvania - July 24,
1994.
A former thru-hiker ran into Laid Back
Sue and I as we used the pay phone in the small town of Port Clinton,
Pennsylvania. Later that night she met us near the Eckville Shelter and we
packed in a few pizzas, some beers, and some sodas for the thru-hikers gathered
at the shelter.
Most Miles On Trail In A Single Day -
Mt. Algo Lean To,
Appalachian Trail -
Western Connecticut -
August 8, 1994. (22
Miles).
Twenty-two miles isn't exactly a
marathon day (and I knew a number of thru-hikers in 1994 that broke the
thirty mile mark),
but this is my personal best
and I did it with a full pack.
Most Days On Trail Without Re-Supply -
100 Mile Wilderness,
Appalachian Trail - Central Maine - October 15, 1994.
(8 Days)
The Appalachian Trail Conference
recommends ten days to complete the 100 Mile Wilderness in Northern Maine.
I made it in eight days with three other thru-hikers but still had to ration
my food starting on day five.
Most Days On Trail Without A Shower -
100 Mile Wilderness,
Appalachian Trail - Central Maine - October 15, 1994.
(10 Days)
It only took us eight days to get
through the 100 Mile Wilderness, but it took another two days to hike to Mt.
Katahdin and climb it. There were no showering facilities until we
hit the base of Katahdin.
Most Isolated (Most Solitude)
-
Zone 31-32, Denali National Park - Central Alaska - June 30, 1995.
We didn't see a single backpacker
(or any signs of a hiker) in the entire five days we spent in the bush of
Denali National Park.
Most Frightened -
Pine Knob Shelter,
Appalachian Trail - Western
Maryland, July 11, 1994.

Laid Back Sue and I
spent a spooky night at this
shelter located just off I-70/U.S. 40 on the A.T. in Maryland. After
fleeing the shelter, making a 911 call, and being rescued by a park ranger
neither one of us are entirely sure what happened that night.
Seriously.
Most Lost -
Looking Glass Rock, Pisgah National Forest - Western North Carolina - March
11, 1995.
The Joker and I decided to night-hike
to the summit of Looking Glass Rock and immediately made a wrong turn within
the first two minutes of leaving the trailhead. We spent the rest of
the night bushwacking up the side of the mountain and eventually set-up camp
(minus some forgotten tent poles) around 11pm.
Most Dangerous -
Zone 31-32, Denali
National Park - Central Alaska - June 30, 1995.
A grizzly bear followed us for nearly two
hours along the Toklat River and closed within twenty yards before we
reached the park road and flagged down a backcountry bus.
Most Difficult Backpacking Trip
-
Zone 28, Denali
National Park - Central Alaska - June 30, 2000.
We hiked for eight hours
along the Teklankia River
and covered only two miles in a
nameless canyon we dubbed Hells Canyon. At times, we thought
Smoky was going to have cardiac
arrest.
Most Elevation Change -
Mt.
Katahdin, Appalachian Trail, Baxter State Park, North Central Maine, October 7, 1994.
(10,000 feet/day)
It's nearly a five thousand foot climb
from the Katahdin Stream Campground to Mt. Katahdin, the northern terminus
of the Appalachian Trail. That's an elevation change of almost 10,000
feet by the time you ascend then descend it.
Highest Elevation -
Mt. Phillips,
Philmont National Scout Ranch, Northern New Mexico, July 18-30, 1983.
(11,700 feet)
Well, it's not
exactly mountaineering but I guess this is as high as I've climbed on a
backpacking trip (despite numerous trips to Colorado, Montana, and Wyoming).
This was also my first real backpacking trip which I took with the Scouts in
1983.
Lowest Elevation -
Stafford Beach, Cumberland Island National Park, Southeast Georgia -
December 26, 1997.
(sea level)
Other than Death Valley (which I have
yet to visit), sea level and coastal hikes qualify as the lowest elevation.
This is one of the first of a few coastal hikes I've done.
Biggest
Group - 1.
Gum
Gap, Caesars Head State Park, Northwest South Carolina - April 17, 1999.
(11) 2.
Siler Bald,
Nantahala National Forest - Western North Carolina - March 4, 2000. (9)
Typically I hike
with only a handful of people at a time, but this trip to Gum Gap was a
big one, and the trip to Siler was a close second.
Biggest Surprise -
Stratton Bald, Nantahala National Forest, Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock
Creek Wilderness - Western North Carolina - October
13, 2001.
I had heard very
little about Stratton Bald prior to this trip and was pleasantly surprised
by the Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Creek Wilderness and Stratton Bald.
Apparently the word is out on this place. There were at least four
other groups on the summit during our overnight visit.
Earliest Start -
Trout Creek Campsite,
Appalachian Trail - Western Virginia - June 13, 1994.
Summer hit early in the mountains of
western Virginia in 1994, and some fellow thru-hikers and I decided to beat
the heat by hiking in the early morning hours. We got up at 4:30am and
hit the trail by 5am this morning (although I confess that I'm not much of a
morning person and don't expect to break this record anytime soon.)
Latest Start -
Rabun Bald,
Bartram Trail - Northeast Georgia - November, 11 2001.
I've night-hiked into camp a number of
times, but the latest start I had was probably around 9:30pm on this hike to
Rabun Bald.
CAMPING
Best Overall Campsite -
Thomas Knob Shelter Area, Mount Rogers NRA, Appalachian Trail - Western
Virginia - October 10, 1994.
The
Mount Rogers NRA and nearby Grayson Highlands State Park is heavily used,
but it has some of the most spectacular backpacking in the Southeastern U.S.
I've hiked it during all the seasons and have never been disappointed
(although snow is common during the winter months).
Worst Overall Campsite -
Sarver
Cabin Campsite, Appalachian Trail - Southwestern Virginia - June 12, 1994.
This is definitely
the most overgrown, snake ridden and downright spooky place I've every
camped. The fact that it was a steep and difficult descent to the area
from the Appalachian Trail and that no water was available didn't make
things any better. The climb out of here was no picnic either.
Best Spring Campsite -
Springer
Mountain Shelter, Appalachian Trail - North Georgia - April 11, 1994.
Yeah, this place is mobbed from late
February through mid April but if you want to get pumped up about
backpacking, then this is the place. Over 2000 thru-hikers start their
northbound journey on the A.T. at Springer Mountain each year.
Worst Spring Campsite
-
Looking Glass Rock, Pisgah National Forest - Western North Carolina - March
11, 1995.
The Joker and I decided to
night-hike to the summit of Looking Glass Rock and immediately made a wrong
turn within the first two minutes of leaving the trailhead. We spent
the rest of the night bushwacking up the side of the mountain and eventually
set-up camp (minus some forgotten tent poles) around 11pm.
Best Summer Campsite -
Conasauga
River, Cohutta Wilderness, Chattahooche National Forest - Northeast Georgia
- July 28,
1997.
Summer can be brutally hot in North
Georgia, but the Conasauga delivers some nice swimmin' and fishin' holes (as
does the nearby Jacks River).
Worst Summer Campsite -
Sarver
Cabin Campsite, Appalachian Trail - Southwestern Virginia - June 12, 1994.
This is definitely
the most overgrown, snake ridden and downright spooky place I've every
camped. The fact that it was a steep and difficult descent to the area
from the Appalachian Trail and that no water was available didn't make
things any better. The climb out of here was no picnic either.
Best Fall Campsite -
Nahmakanta
Lake, 100 Mile Wilderness, Appalachian Trail - North Central Maine - October
10, 1994.
This is a great campsite, especially in
the fall. Nahmakanta Lake is deep in the 100 Mile Wilderness and it is
very difficult to access, so you are almost assured privacy even though it
is located a short distance from the Appalachian Trail. I camped on
the lake with Delta Force during the last few days of my thru-hike, and we
watched the sun set over a small campfire along the banks of the lake.
Worst Fall Campsite -
Rabun Bald,
Bartram Trail - Northeast Georgia - November 16, 2002.
The Camel and I got hit by two wicked thunderstorms on this exposed summit
and I had to move camp
in the middle of the night
in between storms. The Camel was warm and dry and decided to stay put.
He feared for his life the rest of the night.
Best Winter Campsite -
Bright Angel
Campground, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10,
2002.
Snow
is not uncommon at the South Rim during December (and we had a dusting as we
started our hike), but the daytime temperatures are ideal for hiking.
Phantom Ranch and the Bright Angel Campground are located on the Colorado
River a days hike from the South Rim, and there's even a cantina where you
can buy some snacks, play some board games, and enjoy a cold beer.
Worst Winter Campsite -
Bradley
Fork, Great Smoky Mountain National Park, Western North Carolina - January
3, 1998.
There was so much snow on the ground, The Ox and I
walked past this designated campsite twice. We finally found the
firepit after digging in snow for 20-30 minutes.
Best
Trailside
Hostel -
Shaw's Boarding
House,
Appalachian Trail
- Central
Maine - October 4, 1994.
Mr. and Mrs. Shaw were some of the
nicest people I met on the Trail in 1994. Mrs. Shaw is a great cook,
and Mr. Shaw can play a mean game of horseshoes.
Best Trailside Hotel -
Long
Trail Inn, Appalachian Trail - South Central
Vermont - August 29, 1994.
Well it's not exactly trailside anymore
with the relocation of the A.T.,
but it was in 1994. The Long
Trail Inn got it's start as a ski inn for nearby Killington Ski Resort, but
it also caters to hikers and backpackers. There's a nice bar in the
lodge too that occasionally has live music.
Best Trailside Campground -
1.
Harpers Ferry
Camp Resort, Appalachian Trail - Western West Virginia - July 7, 1994.
2. Jellystone Park
Campground, Appalachian Trail - Southwestern Virginia - June 19, 1994.
I spent three days at the Harpers Ferry
Camp Resort during a heat wave in 1994. It's walking distance to the
A.T.C. headquarters in Harper's Ferry and only a short train ride to D.C. or
Baltimore.
Best Campfire -
Whitewater
Falls, Nantahala
National Forest - Western North Carolina - January 21, 2001.
When it comes to
campfires, The Camel doesn't mess around - especially when the temperature
is in the single digits.
Best Wilderness Party -
Private
Campground, Chimney Rock State Park - Western North Carolina - October 19,
1989.
This was actually a drive-in site, but
we did a fair amount of hiking during the day so I'll count it. We
stayed near Chimney Rock on fall break during my senior year in college.
It snowed that night, but we were well prepared with firewood and spirits.
Nicest Shelter -
Bryant Ridge Shelter,
Appalachian Trail - Southwestern Virginia - June 19, 1994.
There's some really nice shelters on the A.T., but this one in Virginia blew
me away in 1994 (although I saw a shelter with a shower near the Shenandoah
National Park in 1996).
Worst Shelter -
Happy
Hill Cabin, Appalachian Trail - East Central Vermont, June 28, 1996.
I was amazed this
structure was still standing when I saw it in Vermont. I imagine it
has been updated or replaced since then, but it was in bad shape in 1996.
TRAILS
Best Loop Hike -
1.
Bradley Lake, Grand
Teton National Park - Northwestern Wyoming - June 28, 1998. 2.
Backcountry Loop,
Providence Canyon State Park - Southwestern Georgia - June 14, 1997.
It's an easy hike
to
both Taggart Lake (6,902 feet) and Bradley
Lake (7,022 feet) which are located a short distance from the town of
Jackson, Wyoming. The lakes also have spectacular views and abundant
wildlife. The Ox and I nearly walked into a large bull moose near
Bradley Lake.
Best Shuttle Hike -
1.
Gunsight Pass, Glacier National Park - Northwestern Montanta - July 5, 1998.
2.
Heart Lake, Yellowstone National Park - Northwestern Wyoming - August 31,
2002.
3.
Bright Angel
Campground, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10,
2002.
I've done some great shuttle hikes, but
Glacier has it over these Yellowstone and Grand Canyon hikes (which take 2nd
and 3rd respectively). The hike over Gunsight Pass is a popular one in
the park because it has
two
stunning alpine lakes, a windy mountain pass (with a cabin shelter), and
plenty of wildlife (and trout) on the route.
Best In/Out Hike -
Mount Hood, Pacific Crest
Trail,
Mount Hood National Forest, North Central Oregon - July 20, 1996.
Mackie, Slawdog
and I hiked from the Timberline Lodge along the base of Mount Hood and set
up camp along the Pacific Crest Trail. Mount Hood is an impressive
sight from the base of the mountain which was covered with wildflowers.
We also caught a killer sunset not far from our camp.
Best Trail Conditions -
Georgia Section, Appalachian Trail - North Georgia - April 10-14, 1994.
The Appalachian
Trail is one of the best maintained trails in the country thanks to
volunteers from fourteen states that log countless hours each year to keep
the path open for hikers. I hike the Georgia section frequently and it
is by far one of the best sections of trail I've traveled in terms of trail
maintenance and shelter upkeep.
Worst Trail Conditions
-
Tusquitee
Bald, Nantahala
National Forest, Tusquitee Ranger District - Western North Carolina - August
2, 1997.
I don't think any
federal, state, or volunteer organization has worked on the trails in this
area in a long time (by the looks of things). I'm sure they'd welcome
some help. A mid-summer hike here is nothing short of brutal.
I'm sure The Weasel concurs.
Best Trailhead Parking
-
Bright Angel
Trailhead, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10,
2002.
You'll be fired up
to see a restaurant, snack shop, and full service bar only a few feet away
after the difficult nine mile hike out of the Grand Canyon.
Worst Trailhead Parking
- 1.
Yellow
Creek Gap Road, Nantahala National Forest, Appalachian Trail - Western North
Carolina - August 22, 1992. 2.
Kinsmans Notch,
White Mountain National Forest, Appalachian Trail - Central New Hampshire -
July 3, 1996.
There's nothing worse than returning to your vehicle after a few days
on the trail to find the windows broken (Kinsman Notch) or the tires slashed
(Yellow Creek Gap).
Most Difficult Trail To Access
-
Hogabu Hut,
Kvamskogen Og Birdsdalen - Southwestern Norway - May 28, 2002.
Although many
Norwegians speak English, few of them in the small town of Vaksdahl seemed
to know where the trail to Hogabu Hut started. We eventually found two
young ladies who were out for a walk that offered to show us the way.
Without them, we never would have found the trailhead.
Most Difficult Trail To
Hike
-
Tusquitee
Bald, Nantahala
National Forest, Tusquitee Ranger District - Western North Carolina - August
2, 1997.
I can't reiterate
how difficult this hike was. That's why it made the list in three
separate "Best And Worst" categories.
Most Difficult Trail To Follow
-
Hogabu Hut,
Kvamskogen Og Birdsdalen - Southwestern Norway - May 28, 2002.
The trail was
mostly covered by snow in the higher elevations and we don't exactly speak
Norwegian, so following the occasional trail sign wasn't particularly
helpful.
The map and compass were quite useful though.
Most Difficult Trail
Ascent
-
Mt. Katahdin, Baxter State Park, Appalachian Trail - North Central Maine -
October 7, 1994.
The final 5.2 miles of the Appalachian Trail from the Katahdin Stream
Campground to Mt. Katahdin climbs over 4000 feet. It's difficult, but
it's the most rewarding section of the entire Appalachian Trail (for a
northbound thru-hiker anyway).
Most Difficult Trail
Descent
-
Mt. Washington, White Mountain National Forest, - North Central New Hamphire
- July 28, 2002.
This rocky descent
is difficult with nice weather, but with rain and fog it's downright nasty.
The drop is 5000 feet in 7.8 miles. Your knees will be screaming by
the time you reach NH 16.
Most
Strict Park Management
-
Ice
Water Springs Shelter, Great Smoky Mountain National Park - Western North
Carolina - October 10, 1992.
All
National Parks have a lot of rules and it's a matter of necessity since
they get so much use. The Great Smoky Mountain National Park takes
it to an extreme though, mainly because it gets more front and backcountry
traffic than any other National Park in the United States. The overcrowding and toilet
overflow at Ice Water Springs Shelter in 1992 is a case in point. I
heard it got so bad here that this shelter is no longer available for public
use.
Most Trail Traffic
-
Charlie's Bunion,
Great Smoky Mountain National Park - Western North Carolina - October 10,
1992.
We must have
passed over 40 people on a three-day weekend in October in the Great Smoky
Mountain National Park and we didn't backtrack the entire day.
Everyone was hiking from Newfound Gap to Charlie's Bunion to enjoy the fall
foliage.
Least Trail Traffic
-
Zone 28, Denali
National Park - Central Alaska - June 30, 2000.
We
spent three days in the backcountry
of Zone 28 and didn't see a soul. The park ranger hadn't been to the
canyon we hiked since 1987 when he found the body of a female hiker
who had slid down the canyon walls and drowned. I guess that explains why no one visits
this area.
WEATHER
Best Sunset -
Rabun Bald,
Bartram Trail,
Chattahoochee National Forest - North Georgia - July 4, 1997.

The
Ox and I
sat out a wicked thunderstorm in the
woods just below Rabun Bald, but when we returned to the summit there was an
amazing sunset in the western sky. The lingering clouds from the storm
reflected the light and it made for an amazing scene that my throw away box camera
wasn't quite able to capture.
Best Moonrise -
Hangover, Joyce Kilmer Slickrock Creek National Forest, North
Carolina - November 19, 2002.
The first time I witnessed a sunset and a
moonrise occur simultaneously was on a backpacking trip in the Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Creek National
Forest. The Operator
and I had just reached the rocky outcrop of Hangover when the sun fell
behind the horizon at Stratton Bald. Directly behind us was a full
moon rising in the east. There was low laying fog in the valley below
us and the scene was quite impressive.
Worst Overall Weather -
Rabun Bald,
Bartram Trail,
Chattahoochee National Forest - North Georgia - April 5, 1997.
I've been chased
off the summit of Rabun Bald by a thunderstorm just about every time I've
camped on it. On this spring trip, however, the rain was relentless.
It poured all night and all day the following morning. At 5am on April
6, 1997, we sat huddled in the woods and waited for the lightening to clear
the summit. The sun rose to illuminate dark gray skies by 7am and we
hiked back to the trailhead in heavy rains.
Driest
Conditions -
Bright Angel
Campground, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10,
2002
Well, it is
a desert, and the fact that we hiked it in the middle of the winter when
there were no thunderstorms made for even drier conditions.
Most Lightening -
Springer
Mountain Shelter, Appalachian Trail, Chattahoochee National Forest - North Georgia - April 1998.
Unfortunately, we decided to tent
next to the shelter rather than in it the night Slawdog started his
thru-hike on the Appalachian Trail. There was so much lightening
that the inside of my
tent looked like a disco on the upper east side of Manhattan.
Dunwoody, Georgia (a suburb of Atlanta) got pulverized by tornado's during
the night but lightening was more of an issue for us than the wind.
Most
Stars -
Shinning Rock, Shinning Rock Wilderness, Pisgah National Forest - Western
North Carolina - October 22, 2000.
It was a cool
autumn night in the Shining Rock Wilderness and the stars were out in
abundance after the sunset and the skies cleared. There's a lot of
wide open space in the Shining Rock area which makes it a great place to
check out the night sky.
Most
Fog -
Mount
Washington, White Mountain
National Forest, Great Gulf Wilderness - Central New Hampshire - July 27,
2002.
The fog was so thick that we didn't see
the Cog Railway Train until it was right in front of us. We hiked down
from the train tracks about two thousand feet from the summit of Mount Washington and the fog
completely
disappeared.
Most (And Hardest)
Rain -
Moreland Gap Shelter,
Appalachian Trail - Western Tennessee - May 26, 1994.
I hiked five miles in what was
undoubtedly the hardest rain I've ever witnessed. It started with a
thunderstorm and a heavy, hard rain that I expected to pass quickly, but it never did. I was so cold when I finally hit
Moreland Gap Shelter that I got in my wet sleeping bag and didn't
leave it the rest of the night. I also vowed to line my stuff sack
with a plastic bag from that day forward (and have kept that promise to
date).
Most
Snowfall Overnight -
Rhododendron Gap, Jefferson National Forest - Southwestern Virginia -
October 28, 1995.
The freak
snowstorm started as we arrived at Rhododendron Gap. The forecast was
for clear skies, but the weather man missed this one. We
immediately pitched camp and I set off in a blizzard to find a nearby
spring. The snow was so intense I could hardly see until I crossed a
ridge and saw a troop of Boy Scouts having the time of their life around a
raging fire. They showed me the spring and I made it back to our
campsite. The Seeker, his wife, Reece and I spent the rest of the
night hibernating in our tents as the blizzard raged during the night. The
scene the following morning was spectacular, but my batteries froze overnight and
I didn't get a photo of the winter scene. Ironically, we headed
here to see the fall colors and left 70 degree temperatures in Charlotte,
N.C.
Most
Snow On Trail -
Bradley
Fork, Great Smoky Mountain National Park, Western North Carolina - January
3, 1998.
The Ox and I hiked in 1-2 feet of snow on the ridges of the Smokies
when we did this loop in the winter of 1998. There was much less snow
in the lower elevations, but it was tough going at 4000+ feet.
Coldest
(Daytime) -
Mollies Ridge, Great Smoky
Mountain National Park, Western North Carolina - January 11,
2003.
There wasn't a lot of snow on the
ground, but we had temps in the teens during our Mollies Ridge loop hike in
January 1993 (and that doesn't include the wind chill).
Coldest
(Nightime) -
Chattahoochee
National Forest, Toccoa Ranger District, North Georgia - February 5, 2000.
We had single digit temps on this winter hike along the Foothills Trail
in Western North Carolina. So The Camel whipped up an inferno that made it feel a balmy
forty degrees. Unfortunately, there was a price to be
paid. Flying embers took out one Thermarest and two fleeces. I
learned first hand that the ground is much colder when your Thermarest is
flat.
Hottest (daytime) -
Trout Creek Campsite,
Appalachian Trail - Western Virginia - June 13, 1994.
Summer hit early in the mountains of
western Virginia in 1994, and some fellow thru-hikers and I decided to beat
the heat by hiking in the early morning hours. We got up at 4:30am and
hit the trail by 5am. By 10am, it was hot and excruciatingly humid
with temps near 100 degrees. We called
Hawkeye and he dropped us off at a
nearby Best Western where a large group of thru-hikers had already gathered
by the pool.
Hottest (nightime) -
Appalachian Trail, Blue Blaze Hostel, Central
Pennsylvania - July 19, 1994.
It was 10pm at night and I was
scantily clad and dripping with sweat in my tent (which had no fly on it.)
In the morning, I could literally peel myself off my Thermarest.
Worst Overall Storm -
1.
Chattahoochee
National Forest, Bartram Trail,
North Georgia - July 4, 1997.
2.
Appalachian Trail, 100 Mile Wilderness, Central
Maine - October 1994.
I've been chased
off the summit of Rabun Bald by a thunderstorm just about every time I've
camped on it. On this summer trip, however, The Ox and I got pummeled
by a wicked storm that blew the fly off our tent and left two gallons
of water on our sleeping bags. We were able to dry them from the firetower
platform but seriously considered hiking the 4.2 miles back to the car in
the dark.
Worst Wind -
Appalachian Trail, 100 Mile Wilderness, Central Maine -
October 9, 1994.
Walking Stick,
Laughing Bird, Squeeze Box, Delta Force and I watched a spectacular sunset
at a deserted Rainbow Lake in the 100 Mile Wilderness
during our 1994 thru-hike. We
sacked out around 9:45pm but were literally blown from the beach around
10:30pm when a major storm hit the area. Stick and Bird and I were
completely blown off the sandy beach (with us inside our individual tents.)
Somehow Squeeze Box and Delta Force were able to hold their ground, but I
ended up re-pitching my tent in a driving rain about twenty yards into the
woods around 10:45pm.
FLORA
AND FAUNA
Biggest Trees
-
Redwood National
Park, North Western California - July
23, 1996.
This National Park
has some of the largest trees in the world along Redwood Creek. They
are so big, you can actually drive a car through one at some tourist stop
near the park.
Worst Insects - 1.
Glacier National
Park, Western Montana - July 6, 1998. 2. Denali
National Park, North Central Alaska - July 1995.
3.
Leaf Lake, North
Country
Trail, Manistee National Forest - Northern Michigan - July 2, 1993.
The skeeters were
bad in Alaska, but they were much worse in the twilight hours at Glacier
National Park in Montana. I cooked dinner one night at the tentsite
near Sperry Chalets and nearly fifty mosquitoes fell into my cook pot
from the steam of boiling water.
Most Ticks -
Appalachian
Trail, National Zoological Park Area, Northern Virginia - May, 1996.
The Gomite and I crossed a field in June near Front
Royal, Virginia and it had so many ticks that we spent thirty minutes
picking them off our legs after hiking about 100 yards.
Most Wildflowers -
White River
National Forest, Western Colorado - July 21-22, 2000.
ALE and I did this backcountry hike
near Vail, Colorado and were blown away by the number of wildflowers along
the trail. We took pictures of at least fifteen different species and
they were everywhere you looked.
Most Wildlife -
Denali
National Park, North Central Alaska - July 1995.
The NPS Ranger told us we'd see more wildlife in Denali National Park than
in Denali State Park (which we considered hiking.) To date, I've never
seen more wildlife on any multi-day backpacking trip. In five days, we
saw caribou, grizzly, moose, dall sheep, and tons of wolf tracks along the
Toklat River (but never did spot the elusive wolf).
Black Bear (Closest Encounter)
-
Pacific Crest Trail,
Klamath National Forest, North Central California - July 2, 1999.
We
spotted this black bear at a distance of 100 yards from the PCT, but he
ambled into the woods as we watched from a distance. The Ox, Mackie,
The Joker, and I continued on the PCT until we reached a small outcropping
which we hiked onto to hunt for the bear. It was directly below us
within about twenty yards and immediately began to head in our direction.
We slowly backed away and continued along the PCT. The bear didn't
follow.
Bison (Closest Encounter) -
Yellowstone National Park - Northwestern Wyoming -
June 25,
1998.
If you can make it
through Yellowstone and NOT see a bison, I'm impressed. They are
everywhere. On this trip, they nearly walked right passed our car.
Big Horn Sheep (Closest Encounter) -
Bright Angel
Trail, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 12,
2002.
I could see a bunch of day hikers
snapping pictures less than a mile from
the rim on the Bright Angel Trail. As I got closer, I realized that it
was a big horn sheep (and not a deer) that they were photographing. It
was only a short distance from the trail and was not afraid of the mob (as
many animals seem to be in the major national parks).
Bobcat (Closest
Encounter)
-
Appalachian Trail, Blue Ridge Parkway, Peaks Of
Otter Area, Western Virginia - May 22, 1994.
I saw this bobcat from the backseat of a minivan as we drove the Blue
Ridge Parkway across the A.T. during my thru-hike.
The mother crossed the road as we
passed her. She then retraced her steps across the B.R.P. to retrieve
two babies that were stranded on the other side of the parkway when we
passed.
Copperhead (Closest Encounter)
-
Waitipi Campground, Western North Carolina - July 2001.
Monodeep apparently stepped on this
copperhead as he climbed into his tent at about 1am. It was dead
outside his tent door the next morning and was crushed.
Coyote (Closest Encounter) -
Yellowstone National Park - Northwestern Wyoming - August 30, 2002.
This coyote nearly
walked up to us in the parking lot near Old Faithful. At first we
thought it was a stray dog, but it was definitely a coyote.
Elk (Closest Encounter) -
Yellowstone National Park - Northwestern Wyoming - August 30, 2002.
Elk (like Bison) are everywhere in
Yellowstone National Park. This male was grazing just off a protected
walkway that lead to a hot spring. He hung out for over twenty minutes
and we had enough time to get some good photos.
Fox (Closest Encounter) -
Stone Mountain
State Park, North Central Georgia - July 8, 1997.
The Pixie and I were catching the
sunset over Atlanta from Stone Mountain when a red fox came out of the woods
and stood on the granite dome only fifteen yards away.
Grizzly Bear (Closest Encounter)
-
Zone 32, Denali National Park, North Central
Alaska - July 2, 1995.
A grizzly bear followed us for nearly two
hours along the Toklat River and closed within twenty yards before we
reached the park road and flagged down a backcountry bus.
Marmot (Closest Encounter) -
Gunsight Pass,
Glacier Nationa l Park, Northwestern Montana - July 5, 1998.
The Ox's had his shirt stolen by a
Marmot as he dried it in the summer sun. A tug of war ensued, but The
Ox was victorious (although the shirt had a hole in it from the Marmot's
teeth.)
Moose (Closest Encounter) -
1st Place:
Zone 32, Denali
National Park, North Central Alaska - July 2, 1995.
2nd Place: Isle
Royale National Park, Lake Superior, Northern Michigan - July 11, 1996.
3rd Place:
Bradley Lake, Grand
Teton National Park - Northwestern Wyoming - June 28, 1998.
Moose are everywhere at Isle
Royale National Park, and we took some great photos during that trip.
In Denali, however, we literally walked right into a moose as it grazed in
heavy vegetation along the Toklat River.
Porcupine (Closest
Encounter) -
Appalachian Trail,
Southwestern Massachusetts - June 24, 1996.
This porky was about five feet up
a tree and cleaning the bark off it when I spotted him from the A.T.
He was uninterested in me, but did pose for a few pics.
Raccoon (Closest
Encounter) -
Sea Rim State Park, Southeast Texas - August 1996.
This coon was fearless. It
raided trash cans all night only a short distance from where Mackie and I
were standing along a shelter on the Texas coast during our 1996
cross-country trip.
Rattlesnake (Closest
Encounter) -
Appalachian Trail, Eastern Pennsylvania - July 1994.
I listened to a Sony Walkman at
times during my thru-hike to pass the time. As a result, I nearly
stepped on a rattlesnake in Pennsylvania not far from the New Jersey state
line.
Wolf (Closest Encounter) -
Zone 32, Denali National Park, North Central
Alaska - July 2, 1995.
Well, I've never actually seen a
wolf in the wilderness. It's the most elusive of all animals in the
wild. We did see tons of tracks along the Toklat River in Denali,
though, and that will have to do for now.
FOOD
AND WATER
Best Water Source
-
Standing
Indian, Appalachian Trail, Nantahala National Forest, Western North
Carolina, May 8, 1999.
There's nothing
like a clear cold spring high on a mountain with a nice campsite and
overlook nearby.
Worst Water Source
-
~VA 311, Appalachian Trail, Central Virginia, May 4, 1996.
The Seeker and I
had to pull water from a creek surrounded by a pasture with many cows and
many cow patties.
Best Breakfast -
Shaw's Boarding
House,
Appalachian Trail
- Central
Maine - October 4, 1994.
Well, it wasn't exactly at a campsite,
but it was during my thru-hike while I was hiking the Appalachian Trail.
The Shaw's make a mean breakfast, and the best part is that it's
all-you-can-eat, and in 1994 I think they only charged $5 for it.
Best Lunch -
Bright Angel
Trail, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 12,
2002.
The Operator had a loaf of Hawaiian
Bread, and with a little cheese, turkey, some mustard, and lettuce this
sandwich was the best I've ever had on the trail.
Best Dinner -
Whitewater
Falls, Nantahala
National Forest - Western North Carolina - January 21, 2001.
The first time The Camel cooked up a
kielbasa in a skillet with a bunch of vegetables, I was sold. I still
can't believe he shared it.
Best Dessert -
Charlie's Bunion, Great Smoky Mountain National Park, Eastern Tennessee -
October 11,
1992.
Slawdog, Soul Glo and I had been hiking
for nearly five hours and we're physically beat down from
two days on the trail. We stopped
and hid on the back side of Charlie's Bunion to escape some cold October
winds and powered down Snack Pack pudding before the final climb to Ice
Water Springs Shelter.
Worst Food -
Whitewater
Falls, Nantahala
National Forest - Western North Carolina - January 21, 2001.
We had a great
time on this trip, but this was the worst breakfast I ever cooked. The
Denver Omelet (complements of Mountain House) didn't due well in my
non-stick pan and I had some blackened eggs stuck to the bottom that
required some significant effort back at the house to be removed.
Most Thirsty
-
Shining Rock, Shining Rock Wilderness, Pisgah National Forest, Western North
Carolina - December 30, 1996.
The Ox and I hiked
next to a stream all day, but climbed the ridge near Shinning Rock and ran
out of daylight before we could find the nearby spring. We were so
desperate for water we pulled it from a mud puddle with a foot print in it.
When our water filter broke, we boiled water and let it settle (to clear the
sediment). After two hours, we finally had a small bowl water.
UNIQUE
FEATURES
Best Ocean Hike -
Cape Alva,
Olympic National Park, Northwestern Washington, July 15, 1998.
The Ozette-Cape Alava-Sand Point loop is a shore hike along the Washington
coast. The views of the ocean, cliffs, headlands, islands, and sea stacks
make for an awesome hike. There is very little elevation change so it is relatively easy and there is a surprising amount of wildlife along
the coast.
Best Island
-
St. John, Virgin Islands National Park, U.S. Virgin Islands - May 22, 2003.
St. John has
twenty-two miles of hiking trails and most are short and lead to remote
beaches where you can swim in the surf, snorkel, or just lounge around in
the sun.
Best Suspension Bridge -
Clarendon Gorge,
Appalachian Trail, Southern Vermont - August 1994.
There's been
some pretty impressive suspension
bridges on backpacking trails that I've hiked, but this one at Clarendon
Gorge entertained us for over an hour during my 1994 thru-hike along with Wicked
Ale, Stuffsack, Tired Dogs, and Laid Back Sue. We hitched from here to
Killington and really enjoyed our hiking in this area.
Best Canyon -
The Grand Canyon,
Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10, 2002
It's hard to argue with the grand daddy
of them all. Spend a few days hiking from the Rim to the Colorado and
back and
you are likely to agree.
Best Gorge -
Linville Gorge, Pisgah National Forest, North Western North Carolina - April
23, 1993.
This place gets a lot of trail traffic
and is overused in some areas, but there's a reason for it. Linville
Gorge is a really cool place, and there are some areas that are lesser known
and see only a handful of hikers and backpackers.
Best Lookout Tower -
Mt. Bromley, Appalachian
Trail, Southern Vermont - August 26, 1994.
This place gets
the nod for the activities that happened in the 24 hours I was on this
mountain and not for the firetower itself. Laid Back Sue, Stuffsack,
Wicked Ale, Tired Dogs, and I met the Mt. Bromley paint crew and crashed for
the night in the warming hut underneath the tower after numerous trips on
the Alpine Slide and a few beers at the base of the mountain. It
turned out to be a long night.
Best Cave -
Bright Angel
Trail, Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10,
2002.
Well it's more
like a mine shaft than a cave, but it's pretty cool and it's only a short
distance from the trail.
Best Bald -
Gregory
Bald, Great Smoky Mountain National Park, Eastern Tennessee - January 11,
2003.
I've hiked
most of the balds in the south, and Gregory has some of the best views of
them all. You can see in nearly every direction and there's a huge
clearing at the summit which makes a great place to relax after the climb to
the top.
Best Mountain -
Mt.
Katahdin, Appalachian Trail, Baxter State Park, North Central Maine -
October 7, 1994.

It's nearly a five thousand foot climb
from the Katahdin Stream Campground to Mt. Katahdin, the northern terminus
of the Appalachian Trail,
but the view from the top makes it worth every step - especially if it's the
last step of a northbound thru-hike on the A.T.
Best Hot Springs -
Yellowstone National Park - Northwestern Wyoming - August 30, 2002.
Unfortunately (and
not surprisingly), I haven't stumbled onto too many hot springs in the
southeast. The only one I've come across in the backcountry was in
Yellowstone during our 2002 trip.
Best Fishing -
1. Lake Ritchie, Isle Royale
National Park, Northern Michigan - July 10, 1996. 2.
Salmo-Priest
Wilderness, Western Washington - July 3, 1998.
3.
Tuckasegee River, Nantahala National Forest, Western North Carolina - May
31, 2003.
Lake Ritchie in Isle Royale National
Park loaded with pike during our trip in 1996. We hooked a fish on
nearly every cast. I've been on a few trips where we've caught more
fish, but trout just don't have the fight of a 3-6 pound northern pike.
Best Waterfall -
Rainbow Falls, Gorges State Park, Western
North Carolina - February 10, 2001.
I've seen bigger waterfalls from a
distance, but you can hike right up to the base of this one which adds a lot
to the experience.
Most Waterfalls -
Tuckasegee River, Nantahala National Forest, Western
North Carolina - May 31, 2003.
We walked past three 50 foot waterfalls
in less than a mile, and there are many more on the river.
Best Snorkeling -
Salomon Bay,
Virgin Islands National Park, U.S. Virgin Islands - May 22, 2003.
I haven't done much snorkeling on
hiking and backpacking trips, but Salomon Bay was a great beach to start,
and seeing a five foot tuna from ten feet made it even better.
Best Swimming -
1.
Salomon Bay,
Virgin Islands National Park, U.S. Virgin Islands - May 22, 2003.
2.
Cohutta Wilderness, North Georgia- June 28, 1997.
The Cohutta has some great swimming
holes, but it can't beat the crystal blue waters, waves, and white sands of
the U.S. Virgin Islands. Salomon Bay is a short hike from the main
port on St. John, but it's well worth the hike.
Worst Swimming -
Intermediate Lake, Isle
Royale National Park, Lake Superior, Northern Michigan - July 8, 1996.
I'm not a big fan of leeches, and this
lake was infested with them. Mackie put one foot in the water to
launch the canoe and immediately saw three leeches swimming at his naked
foot.
Best Views -
South Kaibab Trail,
Grand Canyon National Park - Northwest Arizona - December 10, 2002.
The
Grand Canyon is awesome any way you see it, especially from the South Rim
before you descend 7-9 miles to the Colorado (depending on your route.)
Worst Ford -
1.
Toklat River, Denali National Park - Central Alaska - July
3, 1995. 2.
Pleasant Pond Creek,
Appalachian Trail, North Central Maine - July 5, 1996.
We must have crossed this river
eighteen times on our last day in the backcountry as we made our way to the
Denali Park Road. The hardest crossing was right near the road where a
bridge funneled the river into a narrow channel. Factor in a grizzly
bear that was following right behind us plus some deep holes in the river
and you've got a tough river crossing - especially without Tevas.
Geoff had them washed off his feet earlier in the week. (Well,
actually they were Aqua Socks but that's another story.)
Most Unique Features -
Providence Canyon
State Park - Southwestern Georgia - June 14, 1997.
This State Park in
a rural part of South Georgia absolutely blew me away. I was amazed
that runaway erosion could create such a dramatic landscape in such a short
period of time.
Most
Historic -
The Chilkoot Trail,
Klondike National Historic Park, Southeastern Alaska - June 29, 2001.
On the Chilkoot,
you are literally hiking in the footsteps of the gold rush Stampeders, and
there's plenty of artifacts on the route to remind you of it.
Most Scenic -
Gunsight Pass, Glacier National Park - Northwestern Montanta - July 5, 1998.
I've hiked all
over the U.S. and in a few foreign countries, but every time I go to Glacier
I am still blown away. This trip in 1998 had it all: alpine
lakes, wildlife, great vistas, snowfields ... the list goes on.
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